Have you ever pictured yourself soaring down the face of a 50-foot wave holding onto you board for dear life? Neither have we, but that is why we have mega men like big wave surfer Greg long. Typical athlete interviews start with a childhood memory, move onto small town plot and end with a motivational speech. Well, this one is different and in a very good way. Take a few moments to listen to Greg and think about what it truly means to take on Mother Nature’s finest qualities.
VICE Sports today presents the latest from its series Sitdowns, featuring Greg Long. In this video exclusive, the professional big wave surfer opens up about his “non-fatal drowning” incident at Cortes Bank two years ago, his fear of water, and his inspiring comeback.
While surfing California’s infamous Cortes Bank two years ago, Long lost consciousness and suffered what doctors call “non-fatal drowning.” The latest episode of VICE Sports’ series Sitdowns features harrowing archival footage of Long’s rescue team bringing him back to life, and his reflections on the experience that prompted his evolution as a surfer.